For months and months I've been trying to get a decent picture of a rainbow Bee Eater (Merops ornatus) and finally, after only coming across restless pairs, one decided to sit quietly and have his photo taken. This was shortly after I arrived in Darwin on one of beaches that surround the city. A network of bike paths cross the city and also skirt the coast, which is very convenient if you want to go fishing on your bike!
Mikael Lavorel whom I met on the road to Katherine. Something of a legend, Mikael has clocked up 40 000 km pedalling from France to Australia. We sat together, made coffee and shared stories of cycling in far away places like Tajikistan. It was a welcome relief from a bit of a dull day and I left our meeting feeling very content. Unfortunately for Mikael he had a headwind to ride against, but still seemed happy because he could relax after months of heavy attention from the people in Asia. I had become used to the open roads and relaxing cycling, but still it was a novelty to Mikael!
See Mikael's web page at mikael.lavorel.free.fr
Cycling through Litchfield national park just south of Darwin I was lucky enough to see this setting sun. Smoke from bush fires in the area intensified the sun's colour, which became a deep red as it dropped closer to the horizon. The photo doesn't do it justice, unfortunately. It was a beautiful evening to be out on the road and lots of wallabies bounded for cover as I passed through the savannah country. Screeching parrots and galahs wheeled and screamed overhead breaking the silence as they headed for their roosts. The peacefulness was slightly marred by a vast battalion of mosquitoes that arrived after sunset. Before I realised how bad they would be, the idea came to climb a low hill where, maybe, things would be a little quieter. A very very steep 'service' track ran up the hill which I followed for 25 minutes. Having only made 200 metres, and soaked with sweat from head to toe, I decided to stop and sleep on a vaguely flat bit of hillside. After 30 seconds the mosquitoes arrived and, once again, I think I broke the record for putting up my tent before launching myself inside. Only once before had I seen so many mozzies - and was back in Georgia. After killing the 50 or so in the tent I decided cooking was a bad idea so stayed zipped up and ate some peanuts. At three in the morning it started raining which meant I had to venture out to put the fly sheet on the tent. Another million mozzies in the tent and, of cours,e it stopped raining after 17 drops had fallen. Ten minutes later, with all the little whining blood suckers killed, I tried to get back to sleep, but proved tricky thanks to tussocks of grass under my mattress! It really wasn't a very good night and after that I decided not to climb any more hills!
Another evening, whilst looking for a decent camp spot, I came across a lovely little creek that demanded to be camped by - a little oasis in the dry savannah. I pushed the bike a little way off the road and set up the tent under a big tree close enough to the burbling water to be serenaded to sleep. As the last rays of sunlight left the sky a bunch of dingos began to howl their mournful cry in the distance. I had got pretty used to dingos howling but never had they come to bother me in the night and this night was the same. After cooking, while washing the pot by the stream, I noticed many little orange eyes milling around in the water. turned out to belong to a tribe of yabbies - small, freshwater crayfish that I had heard about, but had never caught. These definitely needed a closer look, but because I had no bait I had to chase some high speed, long-jumping frogs until I managed to sacrifice one for the cause. As soon as the bait hit the bottom of the creek a crayfish approached and took hold with its claws. Extracting it from the creek proved a bit tricky because, when they neared the bank, defence mechanisms would make sure their claws opened. Eventually I figured they could be pinned down to the creek bed with the end of the rod and I could catch them behind the head. After an hour or so of cray fishing the excitement began to wear off and I called it a night, or at least, I thought I did. A scratching noise prevented me from dropping off to sleep so, eventually, I figured something was in my panniers stealing food. Reluctantly I got up and made a search but found nothing. Same again ... scratch scratch scratch ... but this time, after a proper search, I found the culprit! Mr mouse was in there having a lovely time and, luckily for him, I was half asleep and not in the mood to use him as bait. In the early morning when I climbed out of the tent, a dingo passed heading to a quiet place to sleep up. Surprisingly it hadn't bothered me in the night.
In most of Australia unplanned bush fires can be a big problem so these signs help people assess the fire risk. I'd be tempted to always leave the arrow on catastrophic if I was the ranger!
Litchfield national park, NT. And what they call a Cathedral termite mound. In the right areas the bush is littered with with these piles of mud! pretty impressive stuff considering the size of the inhabitants. This one measured over 5 metres and was one of the tallest I have come across.
As I have travelled further north and the climate has warmed billabongs have become more common. As the monsoonal waters retreat shallow areas may hold water, or possible a spring will keep the ground wet enough for lillies and other water plants to grow. Like an oasis in the bush they attract vast amounts of birds, water monitors and crocodiles. I had to wade out to take this photo, so had a beady eye open for any lurking crocs, which as it happened weren't home.
Tomer Falls in Litchfield national park is a beautiful spot where hundreds of rare bats tend to hang out thanks to the constant temperature in the caves.
I kept seeing crocodile warning signs (see below) by small jungle clad creeks that the road passed over. It was hard not to investigate the prospect of a huge croc in such a small stream, but after quite a few kilometres only one water monitor was my reward. Plenty of dancing butterflies, wallabies and noisy birds kept me company but no big scaly reptiles were about unfortunately. It was pretty hot and sweaty so here I was having a bit of a cool off.
Savannah flowers and palms In litchfield around a year after a fire came through
One evening I found this lovely creek to camp beside and the thought of cooling off after a long day on the bike was too much. After a crocodile survey of the area I decided this pool was the one to lie in and enjoy my evening cup of tea!
Plenty of signs like this up here but still some people don't seem all that convinced that there are crocodiles in some water ways!
This is the first decent Sooty Grunter I caught and what a battler! In the clear water of the Finniss River I saw him come up and nail the lure close to the bank and for the next few seconds all I could do was hold on as the fish made powerful dashes for submerged timber. Somehow It didn't get to refuge so unfortunately for it ended up as breakfast!
These grave yard like scene is a collection of magnetic termite mounds, aligned for temperature regulation and only found in spots that become water logged in the wet season. Quite an incredible place which I've been waiting to see for a long time.
Magnetic Termite mounds, NT
Wangi Falls in Litchfield National Park. Overrun with tourists but pretty all the same. Met one guy that was convinced that the falls had opened in the last week because the water level had dropped sufficiently enough for safe swimming. He wouldn't believe that a few weeks ago there was probably a dirty great crocodile in there that needed trapping. Clear of crocs now there is nothing whatsoever to stop one entering at night time so never be the first guy to swim in the morning!
Golden swimming hole in the NT
As I passed the Finniss river just outside the Northern boundary of Litchfield national park I met Dion and Mitch. Brothers, Bush experts, fishermen, travellers, crocodile handlers and throughly good guys I ended up staying with them for the next four nights. A generator powered a light, fridge and laptop which were all a novelty for me but having done 12 laps of Australia living bush it means the guys can work on making their films and have a cold beer occasionally. Fountains of knowledge: - the days were spent telling stories, filming wildlife, fishing and exploring our surrounds. We noticed some tourists fishing above our camp who seemed very unconcerned about the crocodiles that may be inhabiting the river. They obviously hadn't seen the three metre specimen that spent its days sunbathing a hundred yards from their fishing spot. Mitch politely warned them of the danger and it wasn't long before they decided that standing 6 inches from the water's edge advertising yourself as a crocodile's lunch was not the best way to spend a Sunday afternoon!
I headed out on the first morning for a fish and soon had a lively little Barra tuck into my lure. Small and feisty he cartwheeled and flipped his way to freedom in a matter of seconds. Intimate fishing to say the least..creep through the bank side vegetation until a suitable snag presents itself where surely a fish must be lying up. A short underarm flick to get the lure out into the crystal water before a steady retrieve, which will quickly have any residents after the tasty little plastic fish. It wasn't long until the first decent Sooty Grunter whacked into the minnow lure and did its best to retreat back to its snag ridden home. Bully boy tactics were called for to stop the olive green beauty from hanging me up in the structure. Checking for crocodiles I soon had my prize hoisted up for a mug shot. As it was still early in the day it meant breakfast would be simple. Roast fish on the coals before another sortie down the river.
Dion with a little Javelin fish that couldn't resist trying a lure!
The business end of a Sooty grunter. At the moment undoubtedly my favourite fish thanks to its mangrove jack like fighting ability and good looks. Fail to stop him getting into the snags in the first second and you might as well say goodbye to your lure and fish!
The Finniss River next to our camp. Shallows and pools giving way to deeper water which is thickly cloaked with bamboo and Pandanus. Any one that thinks fishing is a lazy man's sport should fish here! Often to move from one spot to the next means dropping onto ones stomach and sliding through the tangle of bamboo. It's not everybody's cup of tea but so worth it to reach that beautiful fishy looking snag.
I was still half asleep while flicking my lure until this Grunter gave me a good wake up call when it slammed into my white x-rap!
Good bush tucker from the river. Cherabin (freshwater prawn) and Yabby (crayfish)
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